Green City Guide: Beijing

The sprawling capital of coal-fired China—a city known for air as thick as its traffic—might give green vacationers pause. But post-Olympic Beijing is cleaning up its act: With a healthy dose of curiosity and a spirit of adventure, the bedeviling capital of the People's Republic of China yields a wondrous view of a city rich in history, future-obsessed and surprisingly green.
Trepidation aside, the 2008 Olympic Games pushed Beijing to burnish its environmental cred. Since landing the Olympic bid in 2001, the city has upgraded to Euro IV emission standards for its automobiles, added 20 acres of green space, and raised its number of Blue Sky Days (when the Air Pollution Index is 100 or below, from under 180 to over 270). While Beijing continues to rely on coal for 40 per cent of its energy consumption, the government is seeking more clean energy options, limiting car use, and lending its support to environmental NGOs. And large-scale green experiments—from automobile restrictions to a ban on plastic bags—continue apace.
In some ways, Beijing's continued struggle with pollution and water shortages is argument enough for a visit: Nothing raises our environmental consciousness like a sky evocative of 1970s Los Angeles. But as the skies turn blue, Beijing turns beautiful.
Rent a Bicycle and Bike BeijingMore than 1,000 new cars are registered in Beijing daily, which is partly why the capital is still best experienced by bike. Don't be too fazed by the cars, and don't fret if you're not an expert bicyclist: from gliding across wide boulevards at rush hour in a sea of bikes to zipping through Beijing's scenic hutongs, (alleys formed by traditional courtyards) or along its waterways, there is simply no comparison. What's more, the bicycle has been proven to be the fastest way to get between point A and B in this city. A list of city maps is available at The Beijinger.Bike rental is slowly expanding across the city, thanks to a government-supported program that offers bikes for rent at small parking lots near large subway stations, including Dawanglu, Jianguomen, Chongwenmen, Yonghegong, Hepingmen, Xuanwumen, and others. Place a deposit for the bike—from 100 Yuan up to 1,000 Yuan (about $14-150) for electric and mountain bikes—and no matter what kind of bike it is, expect to pay less than 100 yuan per day ($15 for eight hours). Typical bikes, like Forever models, go for 5 yuan per hour (about $.75) or 20 yuan for the day (about $3). Recently, the Beijing government also announced plans, à la Paris, to make 40,000-50,000 bikes available for free to Beijing residents by the end of 2009. Remember to lock up well, and consider investing in or bringing a helmet—one biking accessory that has yet to hit the Beijing bicycle kingdom.
Take Public Transportation: Hop on a Bus or SubwayBeijing's rapidly expanding subway network isn't just a speedy, affordable way to get around—it offers a futuristic glimpse into underground transportation of tomorrow. Touch screen computers on the newer lines offer maps and station information (albeit only in Mandarin for now), while on-board flat screens deliver news and entertainment programming. Check out ExploreBeijing for an English map. The bus network ain't too shabby either, filling in the subway network's huge gaps with a modern fleet that runs on low-polluting CNG (compressed natural gas) and LPG (liquefied petroleum gas). Though English is slowly appearing on bus stop maps, visitors who cannot read Mandarin might consider asking their hotel concierge for help with routes, or consult the route generator at Google's Beijing map site (some Mandarin may be required).Beijing features some of the cheapest big city public transit in the world: A bus ticket costs 1 Yuan (about $.15) and a subway ride 2 Yuan (about $.30). Better yet: Fill up a subway card ("yikatong ka" in Mandarin) at any subway station (you pay an initial 20 RMB or about $3 refundable deposit) and ride the bus for only .4 RMB (about $.60), while avoiding ticket lines every time you ride the subway. For more information on Beijing's subways, see David Feng's Beijingology wiki.
Get Oriented at the Beijing Urban Planning HallA detailed 3,200-square-foot scale model of Beijing covers the floor of the main hall of the centrally-located Beijing Urban Planning Hall museum, offering visitors a breathtaking view of this mammoth metropolis. The city's lack of tall buildings (in contrast to Shanghai), especially at the city center, illustrates why such a view is so rare, and helps explain why Beijing is so sprawling. Aside from a worthwhile 3-D film on the capital's history and a "4-D" simulator ride about its future, the museum includes exhibits that ostensibly show how the government is trying to improve the urban planning mistakes of the past. There's also a special section on green living, a display about large-scale infrastructure projects like the South-North Water Divertification Project, and a model of a black and white plastic "future home" designed by Zaha Hadid.
Haunt the HutongThe futuristic ambitions of Beijing might lie in its edgy architecture, but the city's soul remains in its hutong alleys. Despite sweeping urban renovations, these labyrinthine streets still make up much of the inner city, just as they did some 500 years ago during the Ming dynasty. Wandering through some of the more famous hutong neighborhoods, like Dashila'r (Dazhalan), to the southwest of Tian'an'men Square, reveals a rich world of faded nobility, lavish government compounds and most often, ordinary Beijingers, who mingle with neighbors, shop for vegetables at outdoor stands, and tend to crickets. Perhaps the most popular hutong street these days is Nanluoguxiang, where the typical serene clatter of bicycle wheels and neighborly chats has given way to the din of tourist bars and cafés. This bohemian hutong lane can be fun, but for a more relaxing and authentic experience, head half a mile west to the hutongs around the three lakes of Shichahai (Beijing's first green NGO, Friends of Nature, offers a helpful "green map" of the area). Though the most famous hutong are nominally protected, ramshackle and large-scale renovations have turned them into an endangered species worth exploring before it's too late. For more on the hutong, see this Beijing municipal Web page, and get your hands on the handy and engaging index-card-guidebook Beijing by Foot at local English-language bookstores.
Check Out Beijing's Wild Green ArchitectureConsidering China's government-mandated rush to reduce energy consumption and its (until recently at least) energy-intensive construction market—which builds nearly half the world's new buildings every year—green buildings are a natural fit for Beijing. Fortunately they're rising at a steady pace. The massive Olympic Village, which has been converted into an apartment complex, has been billed as the world's largest green neighborhood. The energy-efficient bubble-wrap envelope of the "Water Cube" National Aquatics Center, also built for the Olympics, now plays host to community activities, while the GreenPix Media Wall displays a vivid pixilated video facade that's powered by solar panels built into its skin. Near the Central Business District, the mixed-use Parkview Green uses glass and the same plastic material that covers the Water Cube to create a unique microclimate that increases thermal insulation in winter and cooling in summer.
Explore Beijing's ParksTo escape the city rush, bike to one of Beijing's hundreds of beautiful parks—from the holy altars used by the emperors (Ritan and Ditan parks), to imperial gardens (Jingshan and Zhongshan parks, next to the Forbidden City), to smaller green gems (Rendinghu Park contains a replica of an ancient Roman garden and a space-age sculpture). For the Olympics, the city built one of China's largest parks, the Olympic Forest Park, to the north of the Olympic Green. The Baiwangshan Forest Park features wild birds and impressive scenery, and the Botanical Garden and Wofo Temple has a state-of-the-art greenhouse and the largest plant collection in China, with over 2,000 varieties of orchids, a 100-year-old bonsai, and, in the spring, gorgeous peach and pear blossoms (don't miss the reclining Buddha at Wofo). Bicycles are typically forbidden inside parks, but popular pastimes like early-morning tai qi, mid-day kite-flying, and evening-time ballroom dancing are encouraged.
Dine at a Vegetarian or Organic RestaurantThough it may have a bad rap when it comes to healthy, vegetarian, or organic offerings, Beijing is actually brimming with delicious green eating options. Vegetable stands are a fen-a-dozen, soy milk is ubiquitous and fake meat is a Buddhist specialty. A number of vegetarian and organic restaurants—including Zhang Ziyi's Japanese offering, Shan Zhai, the Buddhist favorite Pure Lotus and the simpler Vanilla Garden near the Lama temple—have lately been joined by China's first vegan restaurant, Vegan Hut.As you whip out your chopsticks—get a pair of non-disposable ones—remember to avoid dishes that use endangered species like shark's fin, turtle, and fish that are over-farmed, like albacore. And for your own health, avoid fish from the South China Sea, like clams, trout, tilapia, salmon, swordfish, tuna, and Mackerel, as they are often high in mercury content,. For good tips on healthy green eating in Beijing, consult the Beijing Organic Consumers Yahoo group and contact the Vegan Social Club.
Climb the Great Wall of ChinaIt may be a no-brainer, but going to the right part of the Great Wall of China requires some planning. Skip Badaling, where most tours go, for the Wall less traveled: Fantastic Mutianyu is about the same distance from town, while farther out, the pair of Jinshanling and Simatai offer breathtaking scenery with fewer crowds and the possibility of a thrilling (but strenuous) four-hour hike. A number of hostels and some hotels offer affordable day trips to both sections, but with some planning and time, a combination of public buses and minibuses can get you to both sections cheaply and enjoyably.
Enjoy Nature like an Emperor: Visit the Summer PalacesOn top of its wealth of public parks, Beijing offers an embarrassment of great day trips that will transport you far from the grit of the city. Two separate Summer Palaces—where emperors spent the summer months (and sometimes, other seasons too)—are staples of any serious Beijing tour. While the Old Summer Palace (Yuanming Yuan) is a sullen but romantic testament to Lord Elgin's 1860 military plundering, dotted with ruins of palace buildings covered in overgrown vegetation, the nearby New Summer Palace (Yihe Yuan) shows evidence of imperial excess, reconstructed in lavish style by Empress Cixi after it was also destroyed by European forces in 1860.
Take a Day Trip Out of BeijingFarther out, the Fragrant Hills, or Xiang Shan, yield relaxing hikes and expansive views of the city. Perhaps the best time to visit these former imperial hunting grounds is autumn, as the leaves are turning. Longer day trips include visits to Tanzhe Si and Jietai Si, two ancient Buddhist temples that feature lush bamboo gardens, and the serene courtyard house village of Chuan Di Xia, which can be combined with a trip to Tian Yi Mu, a cemetery for eunuchs on Beijing's western outskirts.The best way to reach most of these places is by public transportation. While slower than an organized tour, a public bus or train avoids dubious stops at gem shops and costs a fraction of the overpriced tours often offered by hotels. If you travel on the weekends you'll likely encounter heavy traffic—a reminder not only of Beijingers' passion for weekend getaways, but their growing love for the car.
Travel much? Check out more Green City Guides.